Dermatologist Reveals Which Self-Tanning Products Are Actually Dangerous

Looking for a healthier way to get that sun-kissed glow? Many people turn to fake tanning to get some summer color without the risk of skin cancer.

Tanning beds or sunlamps can still expose you to high levels of ultraviolet rays, according to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

The CDC warns that too much "indoor tanning" can cause "skin cancers, cataracts and cancers of the eye." The FDA also points to the risks of premature aging and immune suppression linked to UVB radiation.

"More than 400,000 cases of skin cancer are estimated to be related to indoor tanning in the U.S. each year," according to the Department of Health and Human Services. About 6,000 of these are melanomas, the most serious type of skin cancer.

In addition, the CDC states: "Indoor tanning accidents and burns send more than 3,000 people to the emergency room each year."

Other types of self-tanning product are available, but are they any safer? Newsweek asked dermatologists and surgeons about the options.

Fake Tanning Lotions

One of the most common ingredients in sunless tanning lotions is dihydroxyacetone (DHA). DHA products are approved in the U.S. for topical application, said Dr. Melanie Palm, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon at Art of Skin MD in San Diego.

Lotions that contain DHA simply stain the top layer of the skin (or stratum corneum), according to Palm, who was recently named among Newsweek's top 50 cosmetic dermatologists.

Tanning lotions with DHA "do appear safer" than sunbathing or tanning beds, according to Dr. Beth Goldstein, a board-certified dermatologist at the Central Dermatology Center in North Carolina.

Goldstein told Newsweek: "There are some safety considerations around DHA particularly in people with an altered skin barrier, such as the creation of oxidative damage."

But given that there is little to no penetration beyond the top layer of the skin with these lotions, "this is likely not to cause any serious concerns with normal skin," she said.

Self-Tanning Pills, Nasal Sprays and Injections

Some tanning pills, injections and nasal sprays sold online—and hyped on social media—contain a chemical known as melanotan II, which is sometimes referred to as the "Barbie drug."

Tanning Drug Is 'Dangerous and Unregulated'

This synthetic compound mimics a hormone we produce in our bodies: the alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone, which is associated with pigment production. "Melanotan II usage is dangerous and unregulated," said Palm.

Melanotan II has never been approved by the FDA and has "not been extensively studied as a treatment of any condition in humans," according to the nonprofit National Capital Poison Center.

Skin Cancer Risks of Melanotan II

Goldstein warned that melanotan II comes with serious health risks. It can "alter the immune regulation of pigmented cells, causing new and changes in moles" and "melanoma has been reported shortly after use of this drug," she said.

Dr. Dustin Portela, a board-certified dermatologist and surgeon at Treasure Valley Dermatology in Idaho, also told Newsweek that the biggest risk associated with the synthetic hormones is skin cancer.

"They stimulate more activity from your melanocytes [cells that produce melanin] and there are reports of individuals taking these hormones that have developed malignant melanoma, the most deadly form of skin cancer.

"I have personally removed cancerous and pre-cancerous moles from patients taking melanotan," Portela said.

Side Effects of Melanotan II

Palm pointed out that melanotan II products also come with some dangerous and unpleasant side effects. These include:

• Painful or unwanted erections
• Kidney problems including renal infection
• Muscle breakdown, which can result if kidney function is compromised
• Nausea
• Diarrhea
• Vomiting
• Decreased appetite
• Facial flushing
• Acne
• Elevated exposure to UV, because sun exposure is needed to deepen the tan
• Unwanted spot tanning. Melanotan II can lead to pigmentation in unintended areas, as well as extra freckles and darker moles.

Watch Out for Food-Related Ingredients

You might think pills that contain food-related ingredients would be safer. But many such ingredients in tanning products are found in "massively high doses that have not been approved by the FDA to be used in this way," said Dr. Jeremy Fenton, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York.

Canthaxanthin

Canthaxanthin—a naturally occurring pigment found in bacteria, algae and fungi—"is probably the most common ingredient found in tanning pills," according to Dr. Hadley King, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City.

The pigment is FDA-approved for use in small does as a food coloring additive, King said, but not for use in tanning products that often contain high doses.

Fenton said: "I would highly recommend avoid using any pills with canthaxanthin or any other ingredient that has not been approved by the FDA to be taken in pill form."

Some of the potential side effects associated with canthaxanthin include:

• Gastrointestinal upset
• Liver damage
• Retina damage. "Most concerning is that there has been a report of it causing deposits of crystals in the eyes," said Fenton
• Hepatitis (inflammation of the liver tissue)
• Fatal aplastic anemia (blood cell deficiency)
• Hives
• Nausea
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Severe itching.

Beta-carotene, lycopene and lutein

Beta-carotene, the orange pigment that gives color to fruit and vegetables, is usually obtained by eating produce, King said.

It is also found in dietary supplements. However, "large amounts of synthetic beta-carotene have been associated with increased risk of lung cancers in people who smoke," she added.

Some tanning pills also contain high doses of lycopene or lutein—other carotenoids, or pigments derived from plants. "These extremely high doses can have unpredictable effects," said Fenton.

Astaxanthin

Astaxanthin, another carotenoid that is sold as a supplement, can darken the skin. However, Fenton warned that "the doses to make this darken the skin are likely so high that the side effects could be unpredictable. I would recommend avoiding these supplements until there are more studies that are done to confirm its safety."

Tyrosine

Tyrosine, an amino acid that occurs naturally in many foods, is often found as an ingredient in tanning pills. However, "tyrosine has been shown to not be effective and the FDA states that they are dangerous. They have not been approved for use in the U.S.," King said.

Be Careful With Spray Tanning

If you opt for a spray tan, there is a risk you will inhale the product or it will get near the mucosal surfaces of your eyes, nose and mouth. For this reason, lotions and creams may be a better choice, according to Fenton.

He said: "Inhaling these sprays could trigger asthma, lead to COPD [chronic obstructive pulmonary disease] or other lung issues long term."

Fenton recommends holding your breath, wearing a mask and keeping your eyes and mouth closed if you are being sprayed. You should also avoid having your face sprayed.

Which Self-Tanning Products Are Safest?

Fenton warned against using any systemic treatments such as nasal sprays and injections.

Check the ingredient list, he added. If the ingredients include "afamelanotide, bremelanotide or α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone" (which is sometimes written as α-MSH or alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone), avoid that product.

The safest self-tanning products are bronzers, he said, as "these don't actually change the skin but impart a color while you are wearing them."

For more lasting results, Fenton recommends using a DHA lotion or cream. "I would avoid one that has fragrances or other unnecessary ingredients that could only potentially irritate the skin or cause an allergic reaction."

Portela advised sticking to products with more organic and naturally derived ingredients.

Do you have any skin health tips to share? Let us know at life@newsweek.com. We can ask experts for advice, and your story could be featured on Newsweek.